The backpacker hub of coastal Cambodia, Sihanoukville, known locally as ‘Kampong Som’ is a fun place to hang out for a few days. Compared to the tourist Mecca of South Thailand, the white sandy beaches of Cambodia are fairly undeveloped and the atmosphere is really laid back. There are four main beaches; Independence, Otres, Occheuteal and Serendipity; the latter being the most popular amongst backpackers. And, just off shore you’ll find ‘Robinson Crusoe Style’ tropical islands that are just a boat ride away. Days chilling on the beach, cheap seafood barbecues on the beach and wicked nights partying with fellow travellers, will have you lingering longer than you had planned! Without wanting to put a dampener on the place, backpackers do be careful as violence, rape and muggings have all been reported in Sihanoukville in recent times and it’s not a good idea (for girls especially) to wander alone at night. All travellers must remember that Cambodia is still a developing country and one that is recovering from a very recent and very horrifying past; it’s certainly not Koh Phangan and poverty can be desperate.
Places to Stay:
Occheuteal and Serendipity Beach: Originally called Occheuteal Beach, the North end of this 5km stretch of sand has become known as Serendipity Beach and is the most popular strip amongst backpackers, lined with bamboo huts, bars and restaurants serving the ubiquitous ‘seafood barbecues.’ This is where you’ll find the majority of beach-front, dirt-cheap, no-frills accommodation. The infamous ‘Chiva’s Shack’ at the North end of Serendipity Beach where you can crash for $3 is the place to stay if you’re looking to meet other travellers up for a good time. It’s nothing but a mattress on the floor, but with all dodgy digs like this – the atmosphere that makes up for the lack of hygeine! As you walk along the beach there are even places that advertise a free bed simply for just eating at their beach-side restaurant. What the ‘bed’ is actually like is yet to be confirmed!
Otres Beach: Harder to get to than the other beaches, but well worth it – you’ll find a less developed, slightly quieter stretch of sand that is naturally beautiful with white sand and calm seas. Although starting to boom recently, there are not as many bars, restaurants and tourists on Otres Beach, which make it a great place to stay if what you want is to just chill the hell out! After temples, temples, temples in Siem Reap and that hectic city Phnom Penh a quiet beach escape may just be the ticket you’re after! There are lots of beach-front places to stay that are a little more expensive than the Serendipity strip, but witha much nicer feel.
Find Hostels & Accommodation in Sihanoukville
Things to Do:
- Beach it: The big attraction of Sihanoukville are its’ beaches. Many people do not much more than lying on it’s sands, relaxing, chilling in a hammock, and generally chilling out. Backpacking life is tough at times! Otres Beach is probably the best if you’re looking to get away from it all.
- Kayak or Windsurf: Fancy a change from lying on your sun towel? A spot of water sports may just be the trick! A windsurfing and kayaking school located on Otres Beach offers lessons and renting of equipment. It’s fantastic value considering prices elsewhere in Asia and the calm seas from January to April offer excellent conditions for beginners.
- Diving: Although the ‘backpacker trend’ is to learn to dive in Thailand, namely Koh Tao, the coast of Cambodia offers some great diving with a great diversity of corals and marine life. Most of the best dive sites are located 1-2 hours off-shore by boat to ensure the best quality visibility in clearer waters and the tropical uninhabited islands make perfect bases from which to explore the amazing underwater world. The Dive Schools are located in the mai town of Sihanoukville where you can chat with instructors and book your trip!
- Kbal Chhay Waterfalls: A 30-minute motorbike trip away, the Kbal Chay Waterfalls make the perfect break from a day at the beach. Rarely mentioned in guide books of the area, the Kbal Chay Waterfalls are a series of tiered falls that plunge into a deep basin where you can swim and in places, walk right under the water onto the ledge and look through the gushing waters. The scene and the lush jungle surroundings make for an impressive sight, much more so during the rainy season for obvious reasons! (May-August)
- Ream National Park: Located just 18km outside of Sihanoukville, Ream National Park can be visited either in a tour (arranged from a guest house in Sihanoukville) or independently, by motorbike or bicycle! Vast mangrove forests, desolate beaches, tropical jungles and mountains make it a worthy place to visit for any nature lover and adventurous backpacker! For any ‘twitters’ out there (the old school kind) the park also boasts an incredible variety of bird life, with over 150 species recorded. You can also hike ‘Meditation Mountain’ which is interesting for it’s array of medicinal plants used by locals to cure ailments for hundreds of years.
- Island Hop: Take a boat ride from Sihanoukville to explore any one of the dozen gorgeous islands off shore. Boat trips depart every day and can be booked from many guest houses and travel agents in town. Mostly undeveloped and unspoiled, many of the islands have no facilities in the way of hostels or resorts (yet!) Although the potential of these island paradises has certainly been spotted and we’re sure it won’t be too long before the investors move in. So, fellow backpackers, if you’re looking for a real castaway escape – now is the time to visit! As far as we know, Bamboo Island (Koh Russei) is one of the only islands where you can stay overnight in a ‘bamboo hut.’ (naturally) Waking up to the sound of the waves crashing on your personal desert island and you’ll feel like you have discovered paradise. Other trips include visits to Soon Nail or ‘Magic Island’, Koh Rong or the far out Koh Tang. Traditional fishing villages, beautiful beaches and some unexplored dive sites await discovery!
Getting there:
- From Phnom Penh: (4 hour bus journey) Most people arrive in Sihanoukville from the capital which is just a 3-4 hour bus ride away. After a few days sight-seeing and shopping, a beach break is the perfect medicine.
Where to go next?
- Phnom Penh: (A 4 hour bus journey) Chances are you’ve just come from here, but if you’re doing the backward loop, don’t miss Cambodia’s colourful, hectic capital.
- Bamboo Island: (1 hour boat trip) Take a boat ride from Sihanoukville to Bamboo Island and a different world. Bag yourself a bamboo hut right on the beach, listen to the waves, lie in your hammock, gaze at the bright stars at night and forget that society exists! This is real castaway stuff.
- Siem Reap: (6 hours) Visit the archaeological wonder of Angkor Wat, hailed as the most magnificent piece of architecture ever created by man. Siem Reap is the perfect town to base yourself for visits to the incredible site and a great place to enjoy some great Cambodian food, hospitality and night-life.
- Elsewhere on the Cambodian Coast: From Koh Kong to Kampot and Kep, you can explore quaint fishing villages, gorge on delicious seafood barbecues or just laze on deserted beaches. Exploring the coast of Cambodia you’ll feel like an explorer off the beaten track, away from the tourist hoards of Siem Reap.
- Battambang: (3 hours by bus) With tree-lined streets and some beautiful colonial French architecture the city is a charming place to visit and a relaxing escape from the more touristy towns like Siem Reap. There are plenty of trips that can be taken from the city including the Khmer ruins of Ek Phnom and Phnom Banan.
